About two summers ago, I landed an internship at the Wentworth by the Sea, a Marriott hotel perched on what is arguably the most gorgeous piece of real estate in New Hampshire.

I was a lucky guy. The scenery leading up to the establishment was breathtaking. Crystal-blue water, commanding boats and a first-rate golf course were just a few of the sights I would encounter; all of which led up to a magnificent white building housing hundreds of well-to-do guests.

Whilst working there, I temporarily lived in Portsmouth’s west end; and for the very first time, the city’s bounty of excellent eats was at my fingertips. I ate out way too often, but I also ate some of my most memorable meals during my time here, a couple of which I scored for free, but that’s a story for another time.

I consistently worked the night shift at the Wentworth, so a pre-work lunch was a necessity. Whenever I found myself in a time crunch, I knew I could count on this little café located about five minutes away from the hotel to bail me out.

That café is called Native Coffee and Kitchen, and since opening about two years ago, around the same time I began my internship, it has become a staple for locals in search for creative, from-scratch meals and local coffee.

Take one step inside, and it becomes apparent that this is no old-school coffee shop. The interior is equally modern and cozy, with communal wooden tables, local art and a small selection of local products for sale. It’s the perfect space to nosh on a house-made bagel or sip a revitalizing smoothie. The café also sports what my be my favorite gender-neutral bathroom sign ever.

Native’s menu has been twisted, shaped and altered a fair amount since I began patronizing the spot two years ago. One of the items that has remained in tact since the beginning is known as the “Work’n Class,” a dish that is truly one-of-a-kind.

Suitable as a hearty breakfast or lunch, it consists of a bowl of crispy home-fries alongside garlicky greens (gotta offset those carbs). A rectangle of housemade scrapple and a sunny-side up egg are stacked on top, and the whole package is drizzled with smoked maple syrup.

For those who were unaware of the existence of scrapple until just now, it is traditionally a mixture of leftover cuts of pork (i.e. liver, heart, etc.) cooked with grains, poured into a loaf pan, sliced and fried until crisp. It’s essentially a type of hash, and it’s popular in pockets of the Mid-Atlantic, especially Pennsylvania.

Don’t let that very off-putting description turn you away from this dish, as it is the star. Whether or not it contains innards, I do not know, but the exterior resembles a well-made hash brown with it’s supremely crispy, lacy texture. The inside is meaty and well-seasoned, and the whole package is easily good enough to eat as a sandwich between two slices of sourdough. No condiment needed.

Like any great dish, what makes this quirky breakfast so amazing is the balance of flavors and textures. First there’s the traditional intermingling of crispy, starchy potatoes with runny egg yolk. The greens add ruffage and additional crunch, while the scrapple contributes an intense meaty flavor unlike any ordinary breakfast sausage I’ve ever eaten.

The crown resting on top of this king of breakfasts is a shot of locally-made smoked maple syrup. There may be no superior compliment to the salty, crispy scrapple. That syrup lends a sugary, woodsy flavor that, when combined with the pork, creates an experience reminiscent of maple-glazed bacon.

This item has become a customer favorite, so I don’t foresee it leaving the menu any time soon. Add the fact that you’re steps away from some of the most scenic beaches in the region, and it’s hard not to leave with a huge smile on your face.

Visit Native at the original Rye location; 25 Sagamore Road, or at their newer Hampton Falls location; 115 Lafayette Road.

References:

https://www.eater.com/2015/9/1/9211867/scrapple-goetta-livermush-what-is-it