Among my most memorable experiences in the American south occurred over three years ago when I visited my stepdad’s parents in Virginia. They live in a quaint little town composed of fewer than 1,000 people. It’s the type of place that comes to mind when the stressors of life become overwhelming and the desire to settle into a calm, rural space where traffic is inconceivable and one can visit a local farm and pet goats becomes a genuine obsession.
A few towns away sat a local barbecue spot that was consistently filled with locals. The menu was filled with all the low-and-slow classics, with the addition of one item that I had never seen before: Hog Wings. I ordered a plate with beans and coleslaw and they were indecently good; basically a chicken wing on unlawfully strong steroids. By the time I finished all that was left was a plate of shiny white bones.
I couldn’t help but wonder why I had never heard of, much less experienced, the so-called hog wing before. After almost three-and-a-half years of going without, I finally found a place that serves them. That place is Smokehaus in Amherst, NH.
This smoked meat-haven opened a little over a year ago, and the combination of ‘cue, homemade sides and local craft beer proved to be a winner for the folks of Hillsborough county.
Among the more underrated items of the menu is the aforementioned hog wings. The name is an obvious misnomer, as pigs lack anything resembling wings. Rather, they are pork shanks, a cut that is derived from the leg (hock) of the pig. They are a naturally tough cut, but they have the power to become very tender when cooked slowly over low heat.
This is where smoking, a technique known for being low and slow, comes into play. Using locally gathered red oak, the shanks are smoked for hours before being tossed in the deep fryer to provide a crisp exterior.
Those expecting something similar to everyone’s favorite bird appendage will be surprised from the meatiness and tenderness of these wings. The meat tears from the bone with little effort, and the juiciness contained therein almost resembles that of a freshly braised pork shoulder.
The most alluring part of the hog wing is the crust, which is ultra-crisp and a deep golden brown. I’m not exaggerating when I compare it to a thin, wispy version of bacon. The ratio of smoky, tender pork and crispy skin is in perfect balance. Plus, the meat is attached to one easy-to-navigate bone, which eliminates the struggle of nibbling around joints.
The hog wings are available plain, doused in buffalo sauce or tossed in a dry spice rub. They can also be ordered as a plate with two sides and bread. No dipping sauce is needed, but those looking to gild the lily can follow my lead and order a side of collard greens and dunk the wings in the pool of braising liquid that sits at the bottom. It’s a bona-fide winner.
Not looking to pig out on deep-fried pork? Smokehaus also offers whole chicken wings. Additionally, I cannot recommend their pulled pork sandwich highly enough. Good stuff all around.
Smokehaus is located at 278 Route 101 in Amherst. Visit them Tuesday to Saturday 11-8 and Sunday 11-6.
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