Amid the nearly infinite realm of breakfast foods, my fondness for oatmeal runs deep. It’s the underdog champion of early morning eats. Beloved and disregarded in equal measure, the humble porridge is undergoing a renaissance, with cafes airlifting the breakfast staple to new heights.
Finding some of the best oats in the state requires some enhanced peripheral vision. Unsurprisingly, they’re found in the cafe-dense city of Portsmouth. Less apparent is their placement in a largely residential area about a mile outside of the bustle. Most surprisingly of all is that the bread-and-butter of this little cafe is not coffee or breakfast foods, but rather bouquets of carefully curated flowers.
Wild Valentine is a Flower Studio/Cafe that opened in 2021, although the business itself pre-dates the brick-and-mortar shop. The folks behind the vases specialize in garden-style arrangements with a “distinctive, ‘unruly’ style”. This embrace of nonconformity extends to their food offerings, the highlight being their selection of “oat bowls”.
Their menu features six variations on the classic, with both sweet and savory options. Those feeling crafty can build their own bowl, with over thirty options in stock to choose from. The oats themselves are the hearty, steel-cut variety, made vegan with either oat milk or vegetable broth.
Among the most unique offerings is the Roasted Veggie Curry, which features a shallow pool of aromatic coconut curry broth that simultaneously wakes up the senses and warms the soul on a gloomy winter day. From there, they add a mélange of roasted brussels sprouts, sweet potato and scallions. Chopped cashews add a bit of texture to the mix.
The centerpiece is a shimmering sunny side egg accentuated with coarse sea salt, cracked black pepper and chili flake. The variation in flavors and textures is nearly enough to make one forget they’re eating a bowl of oats. The subtle crunch of the coarse salt and cashews is the perfect foil for the unctuous yolk, which inevitably bleeds into the sturdy base, mixing with the broth and oats in magical ways. It’s an unusual combination that nonetheless makes a lot of sense.
Not convinced of the virtues of savory oats? Fret not, plenty of sweet options abound, from peanut butter and banana with toasted walnuts to the tried-and-true combination of maple, brown sugar and apple.
For something a little different but still approachable, the Raspberry Crunch is the way to go. Fresh raspberries and raspberry compote contribute a one-two punch of sweet and sour, followed by a generous layer of granola, almond butter and honey.
Once again, you’ll be greeted with many contrasting textures and flavors: juicy, seedy, crunchy, nutty earthy. Not only are they all present, but they all bounce off one another. Much like a well-arranged bouquet, every component contributes to the satisfying result.
The Wild Valentine menu also features a small selection of toasts as well as teas and locally roasted coffee from La Mulita is nearby Rye, NH. Of course, flowers and other gifts are available in spades inside the warm, petit shop. Sit at the counter, a window seat or one of the few hidden tables in the back and let the oats and coffee work their magic.
Find Wild Valentine at 261 South Street in the south end of Portsmouth. They’re open 7am to 3pm, seven days a week. Visit their website for additional info and to shop for arrangements that can be delivered within a 20-mile radius or picked up in-store.