Of all the culturally-rich nations in the far east, Japan stands out as among the most influential. It’s a place that has fascinated the western world for decades despite being smaller in area than the state of California.
Of course, the cuisine of this little island country is among the greatest sources of fascination. But it wasn’t until the 1980’s that sushi, which was previously met with horror by Americans, began it’s journey into acceptance. What began as a few popular shops in New York has spread to become a nationwide obsession and a $22 billion industry.
However, Japan’s gastronomic output is far more varied than simply raw fish, rice and tempura. Numerous dishes have failed to catch on quite as rapidly, which is a shame, as some are hiding in plain sight on Japanese menus.
Enter okonomiyaki. Few dishes are more pleasing to say out loud (OH-con-om-ee-yah-kee) and more enjoyable to make than this cabbage pancake originating in the cities of Osaka and Hiroshima.
The name, “Okonomi” roughly translates to “as you like” while “Yaki” means “cooked”, speaks to the versatility of the dish. It’s sometimes referred to as “Japanese Pancake” or even “Japanese Pizza” on menus.
Although various crepe-like iterations of Okonomiyaki existed in Japan for centuries, the modern version saw a surge in popularity during World War Two, when widespread rice shortages led to the development of flour-based dishes.
The pancake’s structure derives from a simple batter consisting of flour, dashi ( Japanese stock) or water, baking powder, sugar and salt. From there, two main versions of this wartime staple exist. The Osaka version involves stirring in eggs and finely sliced cabbage to form a thick, cabbage-strewn mass.
Traditionally the mixture is cooked in a vessel called a “Teppan”, but a cast-iron skillet does the job equally well. The mixture is spooned onto the skillet and gently seared on each side until crispy and cooked through.
The exterior is nicely crisp and caramelized while the interior remains surprisingly light and tender. To achieve this contrast, the batter must not be forcefully pressed down when cooked or overmixed.
Pork belly is a common addition, but versions featuring octopus, shrimp, mixed vegetables and kimchi are commonly available.
The Hiroshima variation has a more-crepe-like structure resulting from a higher water to flour ratio. The cabbage, eggs and proteins are cooked separately and layered between the crepe shells rather than stirred into the batter.
Okonomiyaki is made infinitely more versatile and fun to eat, thereby adhering to it’s name, from the inclusion of toppings. The only necessity is Okonomiyaki sauce, a thick amalgamation of ketchup, oyster sauce, Japanese Worcestershire and soy sauce. It adds a sweet-salty-umami blast that would otherwise be amiss.
Additional extras worth pursuing include scallions, toasted sesame seeds, pickled ginger, nori and bonito flakes (dried, fermented flecks of tuna). Kewpie mayo, Japanese mayo containing egg yolk and rice vinegar (as opposed to whole eggs and distilled vinegar), is also popular.
Hiroshima-style of Okonomiyaki often includes a layer of yakisoba noodles between the crepes (because extra carbs are always welcome) and a fried egg on top.
The result of all those toppings is enhanced flavor, varying textures and, often, a striking presentation. However, taking the simple route with only Okonomiyaki sauce will still yield an intensely flavorful result.
Next time you find yourself in a Japanese eatery, consider asking for an order of this savory pancake in addition to that spicy tuna roll. It may become a new obsession. Chopsticks are recommended.
References
https://www.ibisworld.com/united-states/market-research-reports/sushi-restaurants-industry/
http://okonomiyakiworld.com/Okonomiyaki-History.html
https://www.japan-guide.com/r/e100.html
https://www.foodrepublic.com/recipes/osaka-style-okonomiyaki-recipe/