What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think “superfood”? Due to the current epidemic of using this word, it was most likely something green. Kale? Avocado? Matcha? They’re all subject to this labeling, which that has no regulation whatsoever. One everyday household item that actually deserves this distinction is the humble egg; if not for its nutritional properties, then for its unmatched versatility.
The egg’s impressive résumé spans all facets of the culinary spectrum, from serving as an emulsification agent in mayo and hollandaise to clarifying soups to incorporating air into meringues and other baked goods. They’re truly the Renaissance man of the kitchen.
Within the confines of the breakfast table, eggs are at their most elegant, pure and delicate when expertly poached in a simmering water bath spiked with just a hint of vinegar. The restrained simplicity of this classic technique is often marred in the form of eggs benedict, a tasty but overwrought attack on the arteries, with the pillowy eggs getting lost in a cloak of hollandaise.
A humble plate of this breakfast staple is fine on occasion, but what if there was a dish that celebrated the poached egg rather than obscure it? You won’t find it at your local diner, but rather a quaint Mediterranean-inspired bakery and cafe in Portsmouth.
Located along downtown Portsmouth’s Commercial Alley amongst other high-profile seacoast eateries such as Moxy and Cava, Elephantine Bakery is a stylish, old world-style shop specializing in scratch-made breads and pastries. In addition to all the tantalizing loaves, croissants and danishes, the Elephantine crew offers a concise selection of savory plates; the most intriguing being the poached eggs cilbir.
A quick glance of this dish’s description may invoke some confusion, as the two main components are seldom seen together. The plate begins with a generous swirl of garlic-spiked labneh: ultra-thick strained yogurt with a bracing milky flavor and loads of live and active cultures. The rich texture feels like a halfway point between Greek yogurt and mascarpone cheese.
Sitting atop this thick bed of dairy are two plump poached eggs. A splash of bright red aleppo pepper butter and a dollop of gremolata, a simple herb sauce that bears a strong resemblance to Argentinian chimichurri, serve as flavor-boosting finishing touches.
The final embellishment is a commanding slice of crackly housemade sourdough toast accented with a dash of extra-virgin olive oil.
While eggs over yogurt may provoke a raise of the eyebrow, it’s a surprisingly pleasing combination that’s only enhanced by the accoutrements. Once you break into those eggs, the lush yolk pools with the creamy yogurt, herbal gremolata and spicy aleppo butter, creating an excellent marriage of flavors. Tear off a piece of crisp sourdough and dunk it right into the mix, or if you’re feeling quirky, rip it into pieces for a crouton effect. Allow each morsel to soak up the flavors before scooping them up with a fork.
It’s a magical combination that’s simultaneously flavorful and clean, with no unnecessary ingredients or distractions. Finally, a dish that gives poached eggs the respect they deserve.
Take a seat in Elephantine’s cozy seating area, add a café au lait or chai latte along with your poached eggs cilbir, relax and enjoy. Picking up a pastry pre-departure is never a bad idea.
Find Elephantine Bakery at 10 Commericial Alley, #2 in Portsmouth, NH