The Oak House Proves Barbecue and Veganism Need Not Be Mutually Exclusive

The creation of the ImpossibleTM Burger proved that vegetarian alternatives to animal products can yield convincing results. Burgers are among the most quintessentially American foods, so it only makes sense that the food industry would focus all their attention onto reinventing this particular item. Few would argue, however, that pulled pork has earned its place as a barbecue staple across the southern states of America, yet a sustainable, vegan-friendly alternative has never been available…or so I thought.

Situated in the adorably quaint and picturesque town of Newmarket, NH, The Oak House is a casual neighborhood eatery specializing in a range of American eats with a modern flair. Browse the menu, and you’ll find Korean Nachos with barbecue pork, kimchi, pico de gallo and scallion crema and a burger loaded with pepper jelly goat cheese, caramelized onions, roasted mushrooms, arugula and garlic mayo. A full bar, daily specials and a Sunday brunch menu filled with creative options add to the appeal of the place.


I am partial to the salads, which go far beyond your typical Cobb or Caesar. Their roasted root vegetable salad, a colorful combination of spinach, roasted beets, sweet potato, fried leeks, pickled radish, pistachio goat cheese and maple mustard vinaigrette, was so pretty and delicious that I made it the screensaver for my phone.

Look at that salad! That’s one good-looking salad!

Oak House puts a surprising amount of emphasis into their vegan options. They are peppered throughout the menu, with options ranging from mac and cheese made with a cashew cheese sauce and tempeh bacon to white bean fritters with sriracha and scallion sauce. Perhaps the most interesting vegan option is the BBQ Jackfruit Sandwich, a vegan alternative to pulled pork.

So what is jackfruit? This unique fruit flourishes in tropical climates. The unripe fruit is starchy, with a neutral flavor that sweetens as the fruit ages. They are also the largest tree-bourne fruit in the world, with specimens weighing upwards of 100 pounds. It is commonly found in southeast Asia, where it is used in curries or as a compliment to ice cream and rice. For more information, visit https://www.epicurious.com/ingredients/facts-tips-recipe-ideas-jackfruit-vegan-miracle-food-article.

Here in the U.S., unripe jackfruit has gained notoriety for its use as a pulled-pork alternative. There is even a company, The Jackfruit Company, that specializes in prepared foods derived from this plus-sized tropical fruit.

So Oak House did not come up with this idea, but they have succeeded in bringing it to New Hampshire, a state that is relatively untouched by the Jackfruit movement (it is a small movement, after all).

So is jackfruit really a suitable substitute for pork shoulder? When it’s first placed in front of you, the aesthetics are alarmingly similar. The jackfruit is smoked and coated in pineapple barbecue sauce. The stringy-ness of young jackfruit translates into strands that significantly resemble strands of pork. It’s quite intriguing, really.


The sandwich is stacked with mango coleslaw and housemade garlic pickles and served on a potato bun. The jackfruit itself has a sort of sweet and sour flavor that tastes vaguely of Kansas City-style barbecue sauce, but with added tang. Without sauce, the smoked fruit would likely lack the complexities of expertly smoked pork, but the sauce carries the package well. The texture is perhaps the most remarkable aspect of the sandwich. The jackfruit has a succulent, tender mouthfeel which evokes the sensation of braised meat. The mildly sweet coleslaw and snappy pickles add welcome layers of crunch to the sandwich.

The sandwich is served with hand-cut fries, coleslaw or a side house salad. Although the fries are phenomenal, the salad is really the way to go. Yes, you read that correctly. Mixed greens are tossed with julienne beets, mango, red bell pepper, red onion, farmers cheese and ginger carrot vinaigrette. For an upcharge, a side portion of any of the other salads on the menu can be substituted. The bold, mildly tropical flavors of the sandwich pair well with the Asian-inspired salad. Plus, you’re already doing your body a favor by opting for the vegan alternative, so you might as well run with it.

While the idea of vegan pulled pork will unsettle many, the rendition at The Oak House is an impressive effort that will appeal to herbivores and carnivores alike. Stop by at 110 Main Street Newmarket, NH.

…but if you’re still not convinced, they have regular pulled pork as well, and I’m sure it’s awesome.

3 Comments

  1. Nicholas says:

    I saw jackfruit at Target the other day and didn’t realize it was this underground movement. Nick Ricci is out here forecasting the next big thing on the culinary horizon.

  2. Bonnie Bowes says:

    Great review! Looking forward to more!

  3. Great Blog Nicholas , very well written

    Chef
    Francis

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