Despite the rise in popularity of Mexican-inspired eats, the torta has remained a rather unfamiliar item to many people. Ask ten people if they’re familiar with the concept of tacos or burritos, and surely all ten will say yes. Ask the same ten people to describe a torta, and the response will be much different. This is a shame, because not only is this Mexican sandwich delicious, it is also very non-threatening.

Why Chipotle has not embraced the idea of making tortas a part of their menu eludes my understanding. While many versions exist, meat, cheese, vegetation and beans are the core components of a majority of them. A large, soft roll serves as the vehicle for all the deliciousness. To become an expert on the torta, visit https://www.seriouseats.com/2015/01/types-of-mexican-sandwiches-what-is-torta-pambazo-cemita.html

My very first torta experience took place at Consuela’s Taqueria in Manchester, NH. I’m practically a regular at this place. I’ve had numerous conversations with Martin, the owner, about multiple random subjects ranging from photography to Thai food. His very presence adds an infectious energy to the restaurant.

This humble little eatery serves up Mexican cuisine’s greatest hits: tacos, burritos, enchiladas, quesadillas and more. Order at the counter, grab some free salsa, take a seat and wait in anticipation for your name to be called. The atmosphere is casual and festive, and almost nothing costs north of a Hamilton (That’s $10, not the cost of a Hamilton ticket).

Tacos are typically my go-to Mexican food, therefore I had a difficult time exploring the menu beyond carnitas tacos. I broke my taco habit one day by ordering the Torta Pierna (torta with roast pork). This decision led to the development of a torta habit that I have no interest in terminating.

The tortas at Consuelo’s are hot tortas, meaning the protein is heated up and the roll is grilled prior to assembly. All tortas on the menu come loaded with refried beans, avocado, lettuce, tomato, onion and cheese. These sandwiches would be fully stuffed even if they were meat-free, but the pork is the true heart and soul of the dish. The roast pork is beautifully spiced, sliced thin and griddled before being piled onto the soft roll.

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When the sandwich is finished, the components are practically spilling out the sides. The act of eating it is not a particularly attractive endeavor. You’ll get some on you’re face, and if you’re not careful, you’ll end up with pork on your shirt or avocado in your lap. Mitigate staining by firmly grasping the sandwich with both hands, with one hand securing the rear to avoid leakage. Lean over slightly and take a bite. Keep a stack of napkins nearby and DO NOT wear a white shirt.

A well-made sandwich should contain contrasting textures, and the torta succeeds tremendously on this front. Richness and freshness are supplied in equal measures. The tender and meaty pork, creamy and starchy beans and melty cheese (part-skim mozzarella maybe?) contrast well with the crisp lettuce and raw onion, ripe tomato and fresh avocado. The boldly spiced pork is the driving flavor of the sandwich, with the earthy beans and sweet tomato playing supporting roles. Although the bread itself, which is referred to as a telera roll, is quite soft, it does a commendable job of keeping the fillings in place.

A small handful of chips accompany the sandwich along with what the menu refers to as “Hot Chiles in Vinaigrette”. This is manifested as onions, jalapenos and carrots marinated in a spicy vinegar that proves a suitable foil for the over-the-top-ness of the sandwich itself. As innocuous as they look, piled into the corner of the basket, they pack a serious punch.

The tortas at Consuelo’s are a messy masterpiece. They’re one of those inexpensive meals that induce a sense of comfort and well-being. I am fully convinced that they take the U.S. by storm within the next five years. Until that happens, get your fix at 36 Amherst Street in Manchester.