Burgers are so fun to play around with because they are a blank slate. Ground meat and some manifestation of bread are the only give-ins. Therefore the potential for creativity and flavors that push boundaries is nearly limitless. Umami Farm Fresh Café in Northwood, NH has tapped into this idea, and the results will make your tongue dance.

A relatively unknown, 4,000-person New Hampshire town is an unlikely place to find a one-of-a-kind dining experience, but that is part of what makes Umami so unique. 

This casual farm to table restaurant specializes in Asian-American fusion in the form of burgers, sandwiches, ramen, hot dogs and rice bowls. The restaurant prides itself on supporting New-Hampshire farmers and providing a comfortable, inviting space for the local community, while also serving as a destination eatery for curious diners statewide. 

The word umami, by the way, refers to that fifth taste (in addition to sweet, salty, bitter and sour). It is typically thought of as savory, meaty and rich. The literal Japanese translation is simply “delicious.” Foods containing glutamate, an amino acid, are believed to have the most Umami flavor.

Umami sits in a 19th century farmhouse, and while renovations have been made, many of the decorations used in the restaurant were a part of that original structure. The unapologetically rustic atmosphere transports you to a secluded rural town, but in reality, you are about a half hour away from Portsmouth.

The chalkboard menu will invoke a cholesterol surge simply by looking at it, but you can rest assured that you are getting a quality product, as nearly everything is made in house, and many of the purveyors reside within the state. The beef comes from Paradis Farm in Dover, and the potatoes were grown courtesy of The Root Seller in Nottingham, for example.

Beef and potatoes will likely be a part of your meal, as the burgers and French fries are astounding. The burgers at Umami are smash-burgers, meaning that they hit the flat top as spheres of meat before getting aggressively smashed into patties. This creates a nice crust and seals in the juices. While I tend to prefer large, rotund burgers cooked medium rare, these patties remain juicy and have an excellent beefy flavor.

There is an option to get a basic cheeseburger. Don’t do it. You’re already eating well-marbled beef and cheese on a bun, so you might as well go all-out. The most popular option is the Smack, which piles on house-made macaroni and cheese, braised short ribs, caramelized onions, American cheese, a sunny-side farm egg and house barbecue sauce. Calorie counters be warned. 

I opted for the slightly less destructive but no less messy Kalifornia burger. This one stacks cheddar cheese curds, avocado, pickled onions, cabbage and mayo seasoned sambal oelek, an Indonesian chili paste (sriracha’s for wimps). The burger was marvelously juicy, while the creamy avocado, acidic onions, crisp cabbage and spicy mayo harmonized very well. The sesame bun effectively concealed the madness.

Onto the fries. They are given the luxury treatment by being fried tempura-style in a mixture of vegetable oil and duck fat. They are impossibly crisp, while the duck fat lends a subtly rich and meaty flavor. They’re excellent on their own, but they can be amped up with homemade cheese sauce, truffle oil or spicy ketchup with pickled chilis.

On my first trip I forwent the burger altogether and instead opted for the Ganjang Chick, a Fried Chicken Sandwich fried Korean style and tossed with a sweet and spicy Korean Hot Sauce and topped with pickled daikon and hot pepper relish. The technique of dousing the chicken in  cornstarch ensures an audibly-crisp coating, and the sauce was perfectly balanced. The sandwich has since been replaced, but that same crispy chicken can be found throughout the menu.

Beer, wine and a variety of coffee drinks and specialty lattes are available for those looking for a buzz, and Brunch is offered every Sunday.

Umami is an excellent destination eatery for any burger-obsessed individual.  The laid-back vibe, sustainable sourcing and bold menu make for a truly one-of-a-kind eatery.