Every since arriving in Florence four weeks ago, Panini have been a staple of my diet (yes, panini is the plural form of panino). Besides being cheap, abundant and filling, these panini are deeply satisfying to the point where I can confidently say that they some of the best sandwiches I’ve ever eaten.
What makes them so sublime? Many things, but the most important of them all is the bread, of course. A majority of the panini that I’ve had the pleasure of shoving into my mouth have been built on Schiacciata, a traditional Tuscan bread made from a simple dough of flour, water, yeast, olive oil and varying quantities of salt.
Variations are numerous; there’s a thin, crisp version that resembles a cracker, a high-rising, lightly salted loaf commonly used for panini and a soft, heavily-salted loaf that sometimes comes flavored with a generous sprinkling of rosemary. The bread dough can also be made with whole wheat flour or shaped into loaves to make schiacciatina.
When used as the backbone of a sandwich, the thick slices, freshly toasted to order, have a crackly surface and soft, but not pillowy, interior that perfectly cradles what lies between. The bread’s mild olive oil essence nicely compliments the aggressively meaty charcuterie and pungent spreads that compose the sandwich. This is a bread for people who dream about bread.
There’s another variation of this wonderous loaf that only comes out of hibernation during the first moments of autumn. Schiacciata con l’uva, also known as pane d’uva, takes the classic schiacciata and blasts it with a paint gun filled with ripe Tuscan grapes.
Simply translated as “crushed with grapes,” this riff on the traditional Tuscan bread is enormously popular during the grape harvest of September and October, with bakeries, cafes and markets selling it by the kilo during this time.
Traditionally bakers refrained from adding sugar to the dough. As the bread bakes, the fistful of grapes adorning both the top and the interior slowly break down and release their juices, thus providing a substantial amount of natural sugar to the final product. These days, however, a bit of added sugar mixed into the dough or sprinkled on top is common.
A less-manipulated source of tradition instilled within this dish involves the type of grape used. Schiacciata con l’uva must only be prepared with Canaiolo grapes, a naturally sweet grape with a high water content. Removing the seeds is a crime, so be prepared for a bit of crunch. The dough itself is divided into two layers, with a landmine of grapes separating them. Add on the additional grapes scattered on top, and the result is a bread that is absolutely exploding with fruit.
It’s not uncommon for the juice of the grapes to saturate the top of the product, creating a softened exterior. With each bite, there’s an inevitable blast of complex sweetness from those lovely grapes. Those crunchy little seeds provide a nice reminder that you’re eating the grape in it’s purest, most unadulterated from.
The bread almost resembles a tart with it’s layered composition and thin, tender crust, although some recipes more closely resemble a traditional schiacciata, with thicker layers of dough providing some relief to the onslaught of grapes.
Either way, it’s a delight. My favorite Schiacciata con l’uva can be found (for now) at Antico Forno Ghibellina in the Santa Croce neighborhood, as their version has the perfect ratio of sweet grapes and soft, tender bread. It’s available for barely two months out of the year, so I have no problem with calling it breakfast multiple days a week.
https://www.visittuscany.com/en/recipes/schiacciata-allolio-tuscan-flat-bread/
References:
http://www.firenzetoday.it/cucina/ricetta-schiacciata-uva-fiorentina.html
Gunter, Beer. (2000) Culinaria Italy. Konemann