One of the tragedies of summer’s annual departure is the coinciding end of tomato season. Come September, we see the very last tomato-centric restaurant specials, from bright heirloom caprese salads to crisp tomato toasts to bright red tomato tarts.

Although these trendy uses have earned their popularity, an even better way to make those high-class tomatoes shine is through a much more common and subtle dish, the BLT.

A few years ago, Serious Eats’ J. Kenji Lopez-Alt published his “BLT Manifesto”, an in-depth evaluation of the classic merging of bacon, tomato, greens and mayo. The centerpiece of Lopez-Alt’s piece was a set of eleven (yes, eleven!) rules that serve to boost the BLT from humble lunch staple to superstar sandwich.

Early on, Lopez-Alt makes a daring statement, claiming that “A BLT is a tomato sandwich seasoned with bacon”. This is reinfored by the first rule; “Use Excellent Tomatoes”. He even goes so far as to call a BLT “a seasonal treat” due to the tragically short nature of tomato season.

Soon after the start of September, I became aware of my lack of BLT consumption this summer, so I went searching for one that emphasizes that final crop of summer tomatoes, and I landed in an unexpected place.

Situated in downtown Dover, NH, The Sassy Biscuit Co. is a Southern Cafe with roots in Billings, MT. As their namesake would imply, this casual, funky spot is known for their housemade biscuits. These expertly-made specimens accompany many soulful plates, such as “The Louisana Purchase”, a variation on shrimp and grits with smoked ham, bacon and poor man’s gravy, and “The Bennie”, a sweet and savory plate of shaved ham and caramelized pineapple hollandaise.

These biscuits also form the base of the restaurant’s “Knife and Fork Sammies”. Eager to finally get my BLT fix, I chose “The Hog”, a modern take on a traditional BLT featuring heirloom tomatoes, house-cured bacon, arugula and basil aioli.

Despite all the tantalizing words in that description, the tomato plays the leading role. These bulky, juicy slices of heirloom tomato have all the bright, summery flavor needed to make an excellent BLT. They also mingle nicely with the meaty, thick-cut bacon that has just the right amount of chewiness.

Although biscuits, arugula and fancy aioli are all serious no-no’s according to Lopez-Alt’s manifesto, they add additional layers of flavor here. The tender biscuit lends a punch of sweetness, while arugula adds spice and the aioli contributes a subtle herbal kick that’s absent in most BLTs.

Taken in concert, these components create a juicy, smoky, peppery mouthful that’s just as pleasing at 7 a.m. as it is at midnight (The Sassy Biscuit Co. closes as 2 p.m., so take it to go for an amazing late-night snack). Toward the end of the experience, the biscuit may crumble from your grasp, thus making the “knife and fork sammies” description appropriate, but the creation is equally delicious when stabbed with a fork as when ravenously bitten into.

While a no-frills BLT is always sure to please, gilding the lily is what makes this mouthful so memorable. Although it may break many of the rules, this succulent sandwich is a fantastic way to close out the summer and bid farewell to those plump red beauties.

Find The Sassy Biscuit Co. at 104 Washington Street St Ste. 100 in Dover, NH.