There are two types of people in this world: those that believe avocadoes are what makes life worth living and those that believe that they are overrated beyond belief. I sit comfortably in the former category, so my ears perked up when I first realized that avocado ice cream was a thing that exists on supermarket shelves.

Ice cream alternatives have absolutely flooded modern supermarkets in recent years. The bounty of low-calorie, non-dairy, high-fiber and sugar-free products available across the country has led to nearly everyone being able to enjoy a vaguely ice cream-like treat.

As someone who can crush a pint in one sitting, I jumped on the low-calorie bandwagon without hesitation. Over the past year, I’ve found myself eating more Halo Top than I care to admit. With summer theoretically approaching, I do not foresee my habit coming to a halt anytime soon.

One brand that stands out from the rest is Cado, a frozen dessert made from avocado pulp. This organic, plant-based and vegan option is made from avocado puree and avocado oil combined with cane sugar and stabilizers such as guar gum and gum acacia.

There been a fair amount of buzz surrounding this perplexing product. The Patriots famously served it to Tom Brady during his 40th birthday party and Whole Foods gave the product a shout-out in it’s “Top Food Trends of 2018 List.”

For this test I tried the “Deep Dark Chocolate” and “Simply Lemon” flavors. You’ll pay around six bucks for a pint, considerably higher than competitors. Is Cado worth the investment?

Flavor

Avocadoes have a mild, yet earthy flavor that I thought may subtly appear in the in the ice cream itself. This was not the case, so those who take offensive to the flavor of avocadoes need not fear.

The folks at Cado do a nice job of dialing up the intensity of their flavors. Their deep dark chocolate flavor is described as “rich and creamy bittersweet chocolate,” and they hit the nail on the head. The flavor is pure dark chocolate. I would compare it to a piece of chocolate made from 50% cocao. Sweetness is prevalent, but it shares real estate with the cocoa itself.

The simply lemon flavor did not disappoint either. The ingredient lists organic lemon juice concentrate and organic lemon oil, and each bite is delightfully pungent without being downright sour or artificial-tasting.

It’s worth noting that the brand currently has only seven flavors, all of which are quite basic. Therefore, there is very little experimentation regarding complex flavors or combinations of flavors. I can appreciate the emphasis toward simplicity, but I could see myself getting a bit bored after a while. Variety is always welcome, and I think Cado could execute more exciting flavors well. 8/10

Texture

Texture is largely what distinguishes one brand of ice cream to another. Most products are made from milk or an alternative such as soy milk or coconut milk. Cado abstains from using a milk-like product, so I was intrigued as to how the texture would fare.

First, it’s worth noting that the package made no indication of letting the product sit and defrost before eating, unlike other brands such as Halo Top and Enlightened.

The texture somewhat resembles the density of a full-fat ice cream with little added air. It takes a bit of effort to scoop, but I would not call it flat-out dense. Those expecting something akin to a slow-churned product, with a light texture that requires no effort to stick a spoon into, will be surprised upon first popping the lid.

The main issue was who Cado felt on the tongue. Avocado oil is prominently featured on the ingredient list, which may have been the culprit behind the somewhat oily residue that it leaves behind. At first, I found it difficult to focus on the flavor because I was instead concentrating on the confusing sensation going on inside my mouth.

I did find this to be a much bigger issue in the chocolate flavor than the lemon. For some reason, the lemon flavor had significantly less oiliness. Although the creaminess was there, the lack of dairy fat made the product much less rich than products using coconut milk. 6/10

Versatility

Due to the creaminess, I’m convinced that Cado would work perfectly fine as part of a frappe or float, even though it lacks some of the richness one expects from real ice cream.

From a dietary restriction standpoint, Cado has a lot going for it. It’s gluten-free, vegan, non-gmo and soy-free. It’s also impressively low in saturated fat (only 6 grams in an entire pint of chocolate) and high in heart-healthy monounsaturated fats.

Where Cado loses points is in the use of cane sugar, with around 12 grams of sugar per 1/2 cup serving. Many competitors have switched to alternatives, some natural, others not so much, to sweeten their pints. However, when compared to the Haagen-Dazs’ of the world, Cado is still quite tame when it comes to sugar.

Also, with 170 calories per 1/2 cup serving and 680 per pint, Cado cannot be thought of as a low-calorie option. It’s no big deal when sticking to one serving, but if the plan is to bury your face while watching re-runs of Seinfeld, then this may not be the best option. 8/10

Overall Enjoyment

I could really appreciate the in-your-face flavors that Cado has to offer with its products. I also admire how the brand has a steady hand with the sugar. The fact that their lemon flavor made me wince a bit indicates that the flavor was not whipped up in a lab somewhere in Area 51.

Although I can appreciate the brand’s desire to master the basics, more complex flavors are needed to keep me interested. I can only eat chocolate ice cream for about a minute before I start getting bored. That’s when I reach for the peanuts and pretzels to add some substance.

The texture of the chocolate flavor was not ideal, but it becomes tolerable after multiple servings. I unquestionably preferred the lemon flavor, as it had a more desirable texture and equally bold flavor.

I really appreciate the concept behind this product, but I cannot justify spending six Washingtons on a frozen dessert when there’s a pint of Halo Top calling my name two feet away for half the price. 7/10

Total Score: 29/40

Cado products can be found at Market Basket locations across New Hampshire.