What is it about off-the-beaten-path destinations that provoke us so much? There’s a preconceived notion of quality; whether we’re discussing the pristine views at the end of an arduous hike, the wholesome grass-fed milk from a family-run dairy farm or the eye-popping homemade pies from a tiny local diner in a rural town. The elusive nature of these spots makes them unlikely contenders for widespread fanfare, however thanks to the internet and countless other forms of media, even the most discrete landmark can earn swarms of fans.
Even when the secret escapes, finding destinations like these evokes feelings of adventure, whimsy and anticipation. These feelings, often a direct result of the media we consume, lead to the novelty of the journey being just as important as the climactic moment of actually arriving. Anyone who has ever found themselves driving several hours for a slice of pizza or sirloin steak must admit that they didn’t just for the sustenance, they went for the experience.
Therefore, driving almost four hours north to a tiny meat shop in central Maine wasn’t entirely about sampling some superlative smoked sausages. This is a store with a charm that very few can emulate.
The town of Unity, Maine, with a population of approximately 2,000, isn’t exactly a hub of urban activity. But who needs a thriving downtown when you’re the home of “Charcuterie”, a humble, off-the-grid store located on a dirt road.
Owned by Chef-turned-Amish Charcutier Michael Secich, this is a shop that adheres completely to the Amish lifestyle. Upon walking into this rustic store, you’re entering a world that Secich created for himself. It’s a much different world than many of us are used to occupying. This is evidenced in ways that are both obvious, (a complete lack of electricity [that includes refrigeration], entirely manual equipment, traditional Amish garb) and more subtle (Signage encouraging visitors to NOT wear masks, a prohibition on cell phone usage in the store).
Poke your head inside, and you’re instantly assaulted by the smoky perfume of sausages, bologna, pastrami and cheese. About a dozen varieties of the former are hanging from string tied onto hooks in full view of the guest. Order one, and the proprietor (during my visit, a small middle-aged woman who may or may not have been related to Secich) will stand on a stool, cut free the sausage of choice and wrap it in butcher paper.
Multiple chalkboards list the offerings for that day. I chose one link each of kielbasa, chorizo and Thai curry sausages as well as a brick of deep bronze-hued smoked Cabot cheddar. Kissed with smoke and pleasantly snappy, each link delivered on the flavors promised. Despite the alarming color, the cheddar was well-balanced and sharp; equally perfect on a turkey sandwich and as part of a cheese course.
In lieu of the modern superfluity known as electricity, Charcuterie utilizes oil lamps and an electric stove for light and heat. It doesn’t get any more “old world” than this. As such, upon paying for my meats (cash only, obviously), I received my change ($3) in the form of a two-dollar bill and a one-dollar Martin Van Buren coin. Works for me.
While trekking four hours to a diminutive Maine town to buy meat may seem foolish, the experience of shopping here is one-of-a-kind. In exchange for making the effort to find the place and resisting the urge to take photos of every piece of equipment once inside (remember, phones are a no-go), you’ll be rewarded with some of the best smoked meats in New England.
Upon leaving the establishment and reluctantly drifting back into the 21st century, I happened across a man (presumably Secich as he was not in the store earlier) traversing the street via horse-drawn buggy. He gave me a subtle nod and wave. I returned the gesture, and we each continued on our respective journeys.
Find Charcuterie on Leelyn Road in Unity, Maine. Beware, they’re only open Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
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