Friendly debate is far from unusual in the food world, as preferences, both personal and cultural, are limitless. Perhaps the most classic talking topic of debate among foodies and casual connoisseurs alike is question of what constitutes a sandwich.
It sounds like an easy enough question. The portable meal we all know and love is merely bread filled with anything one could ever want. But things get tricky when you consider the sub (shorthand for submarine, uh, sandwich), hot dogs and the ever-controversal wrap. There’s even firestarters who point out that pizza is simply an open-faced sandwich.
According to Merriam Webster, all the above may be labeled as such. A sandwich (when used as a noun) is defined as “two or more slices of bread or a split roll having a filling in between” and “one slice of bread covered with food”. Additionally something resembling a sandwich in structure may also be referred to as such, especially “composite structural material consisting of layers often of high-strength facings bonded to a low strength central core”. Sure.
The bottom line seems to be that if bread is involved, then the thing in question is a sandwich. That very straightforward conculsion eliminates one hyper-delicious, yet entirely bread-less, creation that no less functions like a sandwich. Enter the Jibarito.
This Chicago-based creation came about by way of Puerto Rican Immigrants in the 1990’s. Its origin is traced to the Humboldt Park neighborhood of the windy city at Borinquen Restaurant, where Chef Juan C. Figueroa composed a sandwich supported by double-fried, smashed plantains instead of bread. In between the crisp, starchy plantains lays thinly-sliced steak or other proteins, garlicky mayo, lettuce, tomato and cheese, the result being a messy, meaty monstrosity that requires a hefty appetite and a stack of napkins.
The name is derived from the word “Jibaro”, which refers to a rural, self-subsistence farmer or labourer, particularly in mountainous regions. The term is highly regarded in Puerto Rican culture.
Much like bananas, unripe plantains are green, starchy and mildly sweet, whereas plantains that have been allowed to ripen have some of their starches convert to sugar, resulting in a softer, sweeter fruit. Unripe plantains are the trick to a successful jibarito, as the firm, starchy texture holds up well to frying. The final product is dense, crisp, sweet and durable enough to support a myriad of fillings.
Finding this mouthful in New Hampshire is as much a challenge as one would expect. However, granite state residents can get their fix at a little Puerto Rican Bakery with a big reputation. Located at the corner of Amherst and Chestnut in Manchester, Dulces Bakery is known for their housemade pastries, tres leches cake and an eye-popping pink food truck.
Given the name “Dulces”, it’s no surprise that sweets are the main attraction. Yet, the menu also features an array of sandwiches for breakfast and lunch and plates such as pernil con tostones (roast pork with fried green plantains).
The most inticing way to get your plantains, however, is in the form of Dulces’ Jibarito. Made the traditional way with fried smashed green plantains, it comes stacked with roast pork or chicken, mozzarella, lettuce, tomato and creamy mojito sauce.
This is not a sandwich that can be eaten on the move. The proper way is to take a seat, roll up those sleeves, grasp the jibarito with both hands and take a shark bite out of the thing. The package is a mystical combination of tender, saucy, crisp and rich. Go ahead and eat the whole thing if you can afford an respite from activity for a couple of hours. Otherwise, half will suffice.
So is the Jibarito a sandwich? Maybe not according to Merriam Webster or any sandwich purist. However, this ingenius creation deserves at least a mention in the sandwich hall of fame for it’s gutsiness, ingenuity and resourcefulness. Get yourself one, and that light-as-cotton white bread may never look the same again.
Find Dulces Bakery and Cafe at 87 Amherst Street in Manchester, NH. They’re open 8AM-6PM, Tuesday-Saturday.
References:
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sandwich
https://www.sandwichtribunal.com/2017/02/the-jibarito-and-its-origin/
https://www.chicagoreader.com/Bleader/archives/2009/07/22/origin-of-the-jibarito