During my high school years, my interest in the foodways of the world often led me to Nashua, NH, the most diverse town in a racially one-dimentional state. Along the main drag, visitors can find a smattering of petit, family-run eateries selling everything from Colombian arepas to Vietnamese pho. My dad and I often traversed the city streets in search of the most obscure establishments the area had to offer.
We were at our most successful when we expanded our search just beyond the perimeter of downtown. Here, situated in a modest house on Broad Street, sat Shira Kiku, a Korean and Japanese restaurant with a lengthy menu representing some of the best dishes from east Asia. From sizzling Bibimbap served in an authentic stone pot to hand-rolled sushi to the beloved Korean side dishes known as “Banchan”, this was a must-visit spot for both Korean food-novices (such as ourselves) and experts.
For a short time, Shira Kiku was included in our small rotation of eateries to patronize in the Gate City. However, college years brought our weekly restaurant visits to a screeching halt. As my schedule swelled and trips to Nashua dwindled, it became clear that plates of gyoza and Korean fried rice might become a relic of my teens.
A full six years since my most recent visit to Shira Kiku, I stumbled upon a Facebook post from the business stating that February 2022 would be their last month in operation after 13 years. Saddened by the news but ultimately motivated, I knew I needed one last meal before their closure.
Upon stepping inside, it became clear that very little had changed since my last visit. The humble interior, with it’s modest sushi bar and fuzzy photos of traditional Korean delicacies, remained exactly as it was years ago. Eating here has the aura of dining in the home of a generous neighbor rather than a traditional copy-paste restaurant experience.
After fighting off the temptation to order Bibimbap, the wildly popular dish of rice, vegetables, beef and egg served in a blistering stone pot, I settled on Kimchi Chigae (also spelled jjigae), an unfamiliar but tempting Korean stew. The base of this fiery dish includes gochugaru, gochujang (red pepper flakes and paste, respectively), garlic and soy sauce. From there, aged kimchi, tofu, vegetables and proteins ranging from beef to canned tuna are added to the mix. Pour in some liquid, let simmer until aromatic, and have mounds of rice and several glasses of ice water ready to quell the capsaicin.
The pork version that I ordered was the definitive cure for a blustery winter day. Spicy, steamy and hearty, with large cubes of tofu and tender pork, this is a dish that heats you from the inside out. Finishing the entire pot is a feat of endurance, but an ultimately comforting and satisyfing one.
Shira Kiku cemented itself in the community during it’s thirteen years on Broad Street. During my short visit, multiple families stopped to savor one final meal and wish good fortune to the owners. It was an emotional, yet joyful moment for all, even for me, a solo bystander sweating profusely over a bowl of stew.
Shira Kiku offered something that simply could not be found elsewhere in the area. Their thirteen years of hospitality allowed Nashua residents to experience the flavors of Seoul in a casual, welcoming environment. For some, a meal here was a nostalgic recollection of their youth; for others, it was an opportunity to sample a vast catalogue of new flavors.
Although I’m disheartened to see this time-tested spot close; I know the city of Nashua will carry on the legacy of Shira Kiku for years to come.
Sources: