The dawn of summer is approaching at rapid speed, and many of us are ready to live a little more this year after the abomination of 2020. It’s the season of beach umbrellas swaying in the breeze, grilled meat perfuming the air and, most iconically, ice cream dripping off of sugar cones in the hot sun.
Most of us had a local ice cream shop that we’d frequent during the summer in our youth, and hitting up the parlor on an unforgiving, sun-scorched day remains a favorite summer past time. Although ice cream seems as American as that nostalgic summer barbecue, our love of frozen dairy products is not unique to us.
Some of these global styles are familiar; there’s Italian gelato, Japanese mochi and Taiwanese-inspired shaved snow, which has quickly gained traction in the U.S. Then there’s those that fall below the radar. Among the most uniquely satisfying is Kulfi, a non-churn specialty of South Asia.
Kulfi, which is derived from the Farsi word for “covered up”, saw it’s inception during the 16th century in the Mughal empire, present-day India. During the early days of Kulfi, the mixture was flavored with cardamom, packed into metal cones and submerged in ice.
Kulfi differs from the general lexicon of ice cream varieties by not undergoing a churning process. Instead, milk is brought to a slow boil and allowed to reduce by half. This is the homemade equivalent of evaporated milk, which is simply milk that’s had up to sixty percent of it’s water content removed resulting in a thick, syrupy texture.
Once the milk is reduced, sugar and flavorings are added, and the mixture is allowed to simmer before being poured into molds and frozen. Traditionally, the kulfi gets poured into an earthenware pot called a matka, where it is then frozen. The tops are covered with fabric for aestethics and to prevent ice crystals from forming. For those unwilling to seek out matkas, a simple popsicle mold, mug or plastic cup will do the deed.
When emerged from the mold, the kulfi more closely resembles one of those humble fugsicles we all enjoyed as kids, and the texture is similar; dense enough to bite into, but also creamy and refreshing. The density is due to the lack of churning which results in no added air (referred to as overrun in the ice cream universe) being incorporated into the mix.
Kulfi flavors vary widely, but cardamom remains a traditional favorite, sometimes with the addition of pistachios, almonds, cashews and/or saffron resulting in an intensely fragrant, aromatic treat. Other crowd pleasers include mango, rose and psiatchio as well as more American-ized flavors like strawberry and chocolate.
Kulfi is a decidely elusive summer treat in the granite state, but this South Asian specialty can be found at some Indian restaurants and specialty markets. If all else fails, making your own Kulfi is a simple process, requiring no ice cream maker and only a few common ingredients.
Although American hard serve ice cream will always be the kingpin of frozen desserts, Kulfi offers an exotic alternative that’s equally refreshing, comforting, and festive.
Find Kulfi at the following businesses:
Kathmandu Spice; 379 South Willow Street, Manchester, NH
Himalayas General Store; 359 Elm Street, Manchester, NH
Destination India, 14A East Broadway, Derry, NH
Annapurna Curry and Sekuwa House, 123 Hanover Street, Manchester, NH
References:
https://www.icecreamnation.org/2014/07/indian-kulfi-ice-cream/
Yumm!! Interesting twist on ice cream, as we know it.
Thanks Nick!