As the new year approaches, people of all ages are setting up well-intentioned (but often ill-conceived) resolutions in an effort to improve their health. Too many of these people are still under the impression that health food is boring, bland and uninspired. This is a fallacy. It has never been easier to find restaurants specializing in creative, offbeat eats that also happen to be wholesome. It’s just a matter of putting down that rice cake and seeking them out.
Since 2015, LANEY & LU in Exeter has garnered local fame for their approach to healthful, innovative food and beverages. The café is described by the staff as an “inspired eatery,” and this is exemplified through their menu of smoothies, organic herbal teas, grain bowls, sandwiches, salads, soups and baked goods. The entire menu is free of animal flesh, and many items are vegan and paleo-friendly (the idea of the paleo diet infuriates me, but that’s a rant for another day).
The folks at LANEY & LU embrace unique flavor combinations. Expect to find a smoothie combining blueberries and basil and a sandwich featuring a fried egg with almond butter, cheddar cheese and green apples. Avocados are given much love here, with no less than a dozen current menu items containing the creamy green fruit. They are put on full display in what may be the most millennial dish I’ve ever seen: The Avo Burger.
There’s a decent chance that the photo above evokes one of two feelings. You either think it’s a wonderful idea, or you think it’s obnoxious as hell. The avocado burger, a burger with avocado halves replacing the bun, took Instagram by storm in 2016 and has since been phased out.
The LANEY & LU version of his low-carb creation features a sunflower seed veggie burger with kale and jicama slaw, tomato and pea shoots sandwiched between two avocado halves with a drizzle of house-fermented hot sauce. The whole package is study of contrasting textures.
First, don’t even bother trying to pick it up. You’ll look like a fool. This is a knife-and-fork meal. The veggie burger itself has the texture of birdseed, which will not appeal to everyone. However, it contrasts well with the perfectly ripe avocado, and the flavor is pleasantly nutty and earthy. The vinegary jicama and kale slaw provides a nice crunchiness and the pea shoots are crisp, with a bright pea flavor. The wonderfully complex hot sauce rounds out the dish with a well-balanced spiciness.
Beverages are far from an afterthought on the menu. The organic coffee is sourced from Good Vibes Coffee Roasters in North Conway, and many specialty lattes are available. The teas are especially unique. All are crafted by local Herbalist Helen Leavitt and can be served hot or cold. Each one contains ingredients that you’ve probably never heard of, but the health benefits are clear as soon as you take a sip.
I chose the “Cleanse” tea, which features yellow dock, burdock, turmeric, dandelion leaf and schisandra. Don’t let the herbal jargon dissuade you, these teas have a revitalizing effect that can be felt throughout the body. This one had an attractive yellow-orange hue, with the tea bag suspended over the drink with a wooden stick. The mug it was served in even sported the LANEY & LU logo!
The café is adorably cozy and quaint, with motivational proverbs scattered across the walls and a semi-open kitchen. The five tables and few stool seats fill up quickly, but there’s outdoor seating when the weather cooperates. Sustainability is a key aspect of the business; all packaging is 100% compostable, paper products are made from recycled materials and many local products are used.
Whether you go for the Avo burger or a smoothie, LANEY & LU is a place that exudes vitality. The cafe’s motto, “Eat Consciously, Live Vibrantly” hits home to the millions of people who are attempting to improve their health.